Chris Perry Column: It’s Time To Make The Donuts…

In Key West, FL, it’s a restaurant tradition that Ron Oldham and his wife, Pate Kennedy, have successfully continued on Nantucket.

“I go back to the original Margarittaville bar, Jimmy Buffett and Joe Pantorno in Key West. Every restaurant selects a charity of their choice and honors it throughout the year,” said Oldham who has controlled and managed the iconic Downyflake restaurant with his wife, Pate, since 2014.

However, their 11-year run at the Sparks Ave. location will end Tuesday at 2 p.m. when the Downyflake doors will be closing –giving the Nantucket community one last chance tomorrow to honor two great island traditions.

“It was a no-brainer for us”, said owner, chef and chief bottle-washer Oldham.

“I had prostate cancer and if it wasn’t for the Marla Ceely Lamb Travel Fund Foundation, I don’t know if I’d be here today.”

He quietly continued, “In 2018 & 2019, I would travel to the Hope Lodge in Boston on Monday. During the week, I had radiation treatments plus I had surgery. I’d stay until Friday and travel back to Nantucket so I could try and work the chaotic weekends.”

“The Marla Lamb Foundation provided tremendous financial support. It helped us through a very difficult period. Pate and I have always selected our seasonal closing day as an opportunity to continue that ‘Key West tradition’ as all proceeds from our dining room sales tomorrow will be donated to the Marla Ceely Lamb Cancer Travel Fund,” offered the thankful cancer survivor.

Tomorrow’s closing represents a bittersweet ending for Oldham & Kennedy, but is it their last hurrah?

Having contemplated retirement once before, the restaurateurs were coaxed back into the fray roughly twelve years ago when Karsten Reinemo mentioned that former owners Mark Hogan and Susan Tate were thinking about leaving the Downyflake.

“We would see Karsten all the time since he had a boat slip down by the Rope Walk. We talked about it briefly and the next thing you know, we shook hands with Karsten and we moved over to Sparks Ave.,” said Oldham.

Kennedy, Rope Walk's former manager, quickly chimed in, “Our time at the Rope Walk was terrific and it has so many fond memories. Ron and I met there for the first time back in 1999. He flew up from Key West at Joe Pantorno’s suggestion to cook and help us open up in late May, but when he landed at the airport, there was no one there to pick him up. So Ron ended up taking a cab to the Rope Walk where I was working.”

“It didn’t take long,” Kennedy continued. “By July, we fell in love with each other, and we were married in 2001."

As we reminisced about forgotten Nantucket landmarks such as Preston’s, Hardy’s on South Water Street, the Dory, The Seagull, Sweet Shop, the old Tap Room, Nobby Shop, Bosun Locker, the Mad Hatter and the Skipper, our conversation inevitably drifted back to their loyal “family” of friends, staff and patrons. Despite the uncertainty of their next move weighing on their minds, it has been a melancholy few months as they consider various options.

“We are in our 70’s now so retirement does re-enter into the conversation. But the joy we have had being part of the Nantucket community and the friends we have made along the way will always be what stays with us,” said a nostalgic Kennedy quickly looking to add to our conversation of the characters who have traveled through the Downyflake’s front door.

Like dueling banjoes, Ron and Pate started rattling off a few cords with their smiles growing with each passing name as if they knew something I didn’t.

Team Norma, New Zealand Sue G., Bernie Grossman, the ham radio guys, C.C. from the Downyflake, Bob & Nancy Day, Rosie, the old Whaler football teams, Karsten, Brian Pluff, Susan & Mark, Linda Townsend. But when we all looked up and mentioned the name “Evie” at the same time, we all paused - nodded our heads - and simply said, “A sad loss…”

For most who venture through the front door in the morning, it comes down to the donuts. And today, that means “Jamaica Damion” who has deep fried more than his fair share but who also brings a satisfying grin to both Ron and Pate’.

“Ron and I are especially proud of Damion. He has worked with us for six years and Damion came through the H2 Visa program. He met a Nantucket school teacher on island and got married. We helped him secure his green card and Damion comes to work every day with a smile,” Kennedy said.

Speaking of donuts, I had to ask.

How many do you crank out on a summer day?

Oldham jumped back in, “We actually own one of the original donut making machines. We found the modern, automative stuff just did not suit our style. So, we still use the old equipment; and on a crazy summer day, we start making donuts at midnight and go straight for 11 hours and top out at about 3000 donuts with Damion right in the thick of things.”

The big Washington Commander’s fan added, “Sugar and chocolate remain the favorites…”

Tomorrow’s closing starts the clock ticking. Ron and Pate’ knew what was coming years ago but have never felt 100 percent comfortable as to what, if any, role they will play moving forward.

Cleverly calling the looming residential and commercial development Nantucket’s version of the “Big Dig”, they seem to be at peace with the inevitable demolition which is about to start having faith in their partnership, the Nantucket community, and the Downyflake tradition.

“So many people have reached out to us”, Kennedy said trying to find the right words to sum up the overwhelming amount of support shown to them by their customers, friends and neighbors on Nantucket.

“For many, Downyflake is a home away from home. People are happy here. Everyone interacts with each other. We have donuts. We have hot coco with whipped cream. We have pancakes. How can you not be happy with that?”

Chris Fiumara and the Crowd Lending Inc. corporation are on the clock. Most estimates have predicted 15 to 18 months for Nantucket’s Big Dig to come to fruition, but Oldham quickly added, “You know how things go on Nantucket. I think it will be more like two years….”

Oldham continued, “We have been talking with Chris for some time; but lately, things have been quiet on their front. I am not sure what that means, but no matter, we’ll be OK.”

For the next year or two, the Nantucket rumor mill will be busy. Will Fiumara and Crowd Lending look for one entity to take over and run both the bowling alley and the “Downyflake” location? Will Ron, Pate & Downyflake reappear in a new location? Who will buy the last sugar donut before Downyflake closes its doors tomorrow at 2.

Much will be written, and much will be said over the next two years, but I know one thing is for sure….

Come rain or shine, the Nantucket community will turn out huge tomorrow to support two great island traditions: The Downyflake and the Marla Ceely Lamb Cancer Travel Fund.